5 October 2023
One of my favorite things to do in the doldrums of winter is to visit the most tropical restaurant I can think of, order a vacation drink and sit at the bar, pretending to be somewhere else.
I like winter, but sometimes you need some color, something tropical, and food that isn’t the typical heavy, rich comfort foods we are all drawn to when it’s cold outside.
I can already tell that Crasqui, which opened in August, is going to be a favorite of mine when the weather turns.
In the former Catrina’s space on Wabasha Street, just south of downtown, chef Soleil Ramirez is serving soulful, upscale versions of the Venezuelan food she grew up eating. The space is open, bright, modern and tropical, with comfy, ivory and gold mid-modern chairs and an ocean-blue shimmery floor. Given that Crasqui is named for an island off the coast of Venezuela, the decor really fits the theme without being kitschy.
Ramirez is a political refugee who worked closely with the late chef Jack Riebel at The Lexington — she was the chef de cuisine there for three years before she left to start her own business, Arepa Bar, at Midtown Global Market in 2021.
I haven’t been to Arepa Bar yet, but now that I’ve tried Ramirez’s food, I’m going to seek it out next time I’m in the area.
The Roraima, left, and the Calentaito cocktails at Crasqui on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
We started with a few specialty cocktails, which are very tropical in nature. I loved the rum-based Roraima, which balances fruity banana and passionfruit with lime, mint and a splash of sparkling wine. My husband’s whiskey-based drink, the Calentaito, was full of deep bitter and herbal notes. It was a challenging drink for those who enjoy wild flavors, and he definitely does. I was happy with a sip.
My teen son enjoyed his Frescolita, a Venezuelan soda with strawberry notes, so much that he ordered another.
That son was interested in the Venezuelan version of one of his favorite foods — cheese sticks, so we ordered the tequeños, which are wrapped in pastry instead of breaded, and served with a bright cilantro aioli. Turns out, cheese sticks are good in any language.
Arepitas at Crasqui on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Because Ramirez is known for her arepas, I couldn’t visit without ordering the only version on this menu — a trio of arepitas. The corn cakes were tender with a little crisp on the outside and stuffed or topped three ways, each more delicious than the last. First, a little fish number that was like an amped-up tuna salad; next, slices of steak paired with creamy cheese and tomato for a little pop of acid; and last but certainly not least, a classic mix of earthy black beans and sweet plantains.
The black bean souffle at Crasqui on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
Because I was nearly full after two appetizers, I decided to give the vegetarian entree, a black bean souffle, a try. It was light, earthy, salty and cheesy and had some sweetness from the plantain. It was a great, different vegetarian option, and even though I love meat, I’d totally order it again.
My husband’s sea bass was properly seasoned and seared, and served atop a lovely mango sauce with a tasty bonus shrimp.
But it was my son who won the entree lottery. The kid nearly polished off his pork chop, nestled atop a lick-the-plate-good savory blackberry sauce and creamy, dreamy fondant potatoes, before I was able to sneak a bite. There was not a morsel left behind.
Cocotero, a coconut dessert, at Crasqui on St. Paul’s West Side. (Jess Fleming / Pioneer Press)
By this time, we were so full that we were tempted to skip dessert, but I’m glad we didn’t because the Cocotero, a little coconut half-shell stuffed with coconut flan, a light, airy rum cake and a fizzy coconut cream that made our tongues dance, was the perfect ending to an excellent meal.
Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.
Crasqui
Where: 84 S. Wabasha St. No. 3, St. Paul
Contact: 952-600-5578; crasquirestaurant.com
Prices: Appetizers, $16-$24; entrees, $24-$42; desserts, $8-$14
Good to know: Ample on-site parking in the lot next to the apartment building; gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options
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